TAMING TIME
Antiageing skin regimen
By Sunly Coo, Contributing Writer
How well do you wear your age? To the rest of the world, the answer lies on your body's largest and most visible organ-the skin-and more specifically, the face, where the signs of ageing first appear, such as wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. If you look younger than you actually are, you probably have to thank your parents for it because heredity plays a major role in how quickly your skin ages. But aside from the luck of the genetic draw, a host of extrinsic factors-things that you can control-also come into play, from exposure to sun and pollution to dietary and lifestyle choices. An optimally effective antiageing skin regimen therefore does not come in a bottle, no matter how much glossy and celebrity-studded marketing hype accompanies it; the ideal regimen is all-encompassing and holistic.
Number one enemy: the sun
Wrinkles, crow's feet, freckles, age spots, and a rough leathery skin-these are not only the signs of mature skin, they are the imprints left by a chronic and intense exposure to solar radiation. If there is only one specific skin regimen you have to live by, it has to be the religious application of sunscreen 365 days a year to guard against what experts believe is the leading cause of ageing skin-the sun. Years of daily exposure even for a few minutes cause dermal damage, which may not be noticeable to the naked eye but are evident in ultraviolet (UV) photography. A decade or so down the road, the cellular destruction becomes latent, proving the paradoxical nature of a summer tan-it may look healthy and youthful, but underneath the warm glow are layers of photodamaged skin cells.
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UV radiation attacks your skin by breaking down collagen, the substance that plumps up your skin, and slowing collagen production. Elastin fibers, which allow the skin to spring back to its original position, are also weakened, making it looser, less pliant, and, no thanks to gravity, more prone to sagging.
Two types of UV radiation have been identified to be hazardous to your health. The far-reaching UVA, which penetrates through window glass, wreaks havoc in the deeper levels of the skin, causing wrinkling and premature ageing. The sunburn-causing UVB may be blocked off by window glass, but the insidious radiation inflicts irreversible damage on the genetic level, priming the skin for cancer.
Protect yourself against the sun by applying a broad-spectrum (UVA/ UVB) sunscreen with a sun-protective factor (SPF) of at least 15. To shield the skin against both types of UV rays, a combination of chemical ingredients are required, including the primary group of UVA blockers called benzophenones, led by its most effective agent yet, Parsol 1789 (avobenzene), and the most popular UVB blockers cinnamates and salicylate, which increases the SPF number. These UV radiation-absorbing chemicals work together with titanium oxide or zine oxide, powerful reflectors of UV rays. As a bonus, some sunscreen products contain antioxidants like vitamins E and C to help repair sun-damaged skin.
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends covering all exposed skin liberally, even on a cloudy day when 80 percent of the sun's UV rays still reaches the ground. To allow the sunscreen time to work on your skin, smooth it on 20 minutes before heading out. If you're staying under the sun for hours or engaging in sports like swimming, do reapply every two hours. No matter how high the SPF, sweat and water washes away the sunscreen, although the waterproof variant stays on longer, providing coverage for 80 minutes of lap swimming.
Avoid expired sunscreen and those containing para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), an ingredient that can sting when applied, as well as stain fabrics. For acne-sensitive skin, choose noncomedogenic sunblocks, which are usually available as gel.
Reinforce your defense against UV radiation by wearing clothing with tightly woven fabric-nylon and polyester provide maximum protection-sporting a wide-brimmed hat or carrying an umbrella. Try to avoid sun exposure between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M., when the UV rays are at their fiercest.
Cleanse and moisturize
Caring for your skin begins with proper hygiene. For the most sensitive and exposed area, the face, use only a mild cleanser, preferably one that is pH balanced. Because ageing skin tends to build up dead skin cells, help the renewal process along by exfoliating on a regular basis. Depending on your age and unique skin concerns, which only your dermatologist can properly assess, you may exfoliate as often as once a week or as rarely as once a month or even never, if, for instance, you are suffering from acne.
Moisturize always. Maturing skin has a reduced capacity to secrete sweat and oil through sweat glands and sebaceous glands, resulting in drier skin prone to wrinkling. Look for those labeled hypoallergenic, which means the product is free from fragrance and artificial colors that can irritate the skin.
To even out skin tone caused by age spots and irregular pigmentation, consider using a skin lightener, particularly one that contains vitamin C, known to curtail the synthesis of melanin. According to Dr. Donna Marie Leelin-Sarrosa, secretary of the Philippine Dermatological Society, two to four-percent hydroquinone is commonly dispensed by dermatologists to lighten complexion. Be careful not to go beyond the prescribed usage as it can cause ochronosis, a form of hyperpigmentation.
What else should you look for in your dermatological products? Much as you may be tempted to try out every new promising cosmeceutical-a cosmetic-and-drug hybrid often touted by many brands to be a "miracle in a bottle"-only a handful ingredients are widely recognized by dermatologists to be truly effective in decelerating the ageing process.
Retinoid. This vitamin-A derivative is considered the gold standard in antiageing dermatological therapy. Usually available by prescription, it can also be found in over-the-counter creams and lotions at smaller dosages and in various forms. Be it transretinoic acid, retinol, tretinoin, or isotretinoin, this antioxidant works by speeding up cell division and turnover, and possibly enhancing collagen production.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). Glycolic, lactic, citric, and tartaric acids-these organic compounds are proven to facilitate the removal of dead skin cells by melting the protein bonds that hold them together. AHAs can also minimize acne growth by clearing clogged pores, as well as lighten complexion and even skin tone caused by hyperpigmentation. Because they can be irritating to sensitive skin, a patch test is recommended before applying them all over the face. Your dermatologist is best positioned to help you find the right formulation.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). Just like AHAs, BHAs such as the time-tested salicylic acid help peel off old skin cells. Vested with an antiinflammatory property, they guard against acne breakouts and soothe inflamed or irritated skin.
The presence of any of these ingredients does not necessarily guarantee a product's efficacy. The substance must appear in the right concentration, be in stabilized form, and stay on the skin long enough for the biochemical action to take effect. Other ingredients constituting the formula may also affect the equation.
Lifestyle factors
Smoking. Having the best skin you can have at your age means staying away from nicotine. Researchers noticed that individuals who have smoked for years tend to develop more wrinkled and leathery skin compared with nonsmokers. The former are also more likely to gain a sickly yellowish complexion.
Sleep. A well-rested body is stronger and better able to fight off diseases and free radicals. Get approximately eight hours of sleep every night to allow your body to repair damaged cells and fortify them against stressors. When you get enough sleep, notice that your skin appears more dewy, fuller, and less sallow, minus the dark circles and under-eye saddlebags.
Diet. Your mother was right when she said, "Eat your fruits and vegetables." To look good on the outside, you have to maintain a healthy inside. Aside from drinking plenty of water to keep your system and your skin hydrated, feed your body with sufficient amounts of the right nutrients, especially the following skin-nourishing antioxidants:
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Vitamin E. Abundantly found in vegetable oils, grains, nuts, dairy products, and meats, vitamin E protects cell membranes from free radicals which hasten ageing. According to dermatologist Karen Burke, vitamin-E supplementation of 400 mg a day has been associated with fewer wrinkles and photodamaged cells, and improved skin texture. Topical d-alpha tocopherol may also serve as a moisturizer and an antiinflammatory agent.
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Vitamin C. Because the sun, pollution, and smoking deplete your skin's reserve of natural vitamin C-as much as 30
percent is lost by minimal UV exposure and 55 percent by urban air pollution-health experts advise sourcing more of this antioxidant from vegetables and citrus fruits. Just like vitamin E, vitamin C repairs the damage created by free radicals. L-ascorbic acid may be available in topical serums and creams, but since this form of vitamin C breaks down easily once exposed to oxygen, it is believed to be less effective than its dietary counterpart. Science has yet to create a more stabilized form for topical use.
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Selenium. Known to preserve skin elasticity and to mitigate the oxidative hardening of tissues, this mineral also defends the body against skin cancer. Selenium-rich foods include whole grain cereals, eggs, garlic, and seafood. Studies show that daily supplementation of 50 to 200 mg or topical L-selenomethionine offers protection against harmful UV rays.
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Zapping the zit
The usual course of action is to cover the acne with a 2.5-percent benzoyl peroxide gel or cream after washing the face with a gentle, fragrance-free, nonalcohol-based cleanser.
Topical corticosteriod, an antiinflammatory agent, is another widely used medication that prevents the acne from worsening.
But if you ask Leelin-Sarrosa, it is best to seek professional help because there is also no single acne treatment that applies to all.
The right kind of intervention would depend on the patient's age, skin type, and stage of acne growth. Lastly, what you should never do is to pop the zit yourself, unless you are willing to risk infection and scarring.
Too many ingredients?
Learn to read the labels. Leelin-Sarrosa says that the most important ingredients to watch out for are the first five listed on the packaging, because they are the product's major components. Notice that water, the universal moisturizer, is often on the top five, if not the top choice.
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